Patagonia produces hemp apparel in Colorado

A new pilot program between the Colorado State and the brand Patagonia will invest in the manufacture of clothing from hemp fibres, the Hemp today. The protocol provides for the import of hemp seeds from China to a farm in the San Luis Valley, which will grow the hemp to be used in the manufacture of fabrics. This partnership reflects the ambitions of Colorado Governor Jared Polis, who aims to create more partnerships between the hemp industry and domestic companies.

Patagonia, a popular clothing brand, has been using hemp fabrics in its clothing lines for nearly a decade, using the fibers to make pants, coats and overalls. All of Patagonia's hemp textiles were sourced from China, as hemp cultivation was illegal in the United States until late 2018.

“Patagonia is a standout brand and this is a very good and professional operation. In the San Luis Valley everyone is excited about hemp and crops that bring interesting and sustainable value,” said Colorado Governor Jared Polis. “[The partnership] is really great. It brings together our strong presence from the outdoors industry, international trade and our growing hemp industry.”

China's experience and know-how

Jacket from the Work Wear range, from Patagonia, in hemp

It was Ean Seeb, adviser on cannabis policy to Governor Polis, who connected the dots after learning that the American brand was already making clothes with hemp. The strategy was to organize a meeting between representatives of Patagonia and the governor's team.

Polis and his team were introduced to Patagonia Work Wear director Ed Auman, who was largely responsible for the company's hemp adoption. The project gained legs and Wright-Oaks Farms, a family hemp farm in the San Luis Valley, was selected to grow the hemp and oversee the project, which included the importation of hemp varieties from a Chinese supplier, but also with sharing Asian knowledge in the processing stages.

“Almost all hemp textiles so far have come from China. It's a process that's over a thousand years old, so they're the experts at growing it, turning it into a fiber and ultimately into a fabric,” Auman explained.

Hemp: a sustainable crop

The partnership could be advantageous for farmers and clothing manufacturers, as hemp requires less water than potatoes, the dominant crop in the San Luis Valley, and is more durable than most clothing fibers. “Hemp requires very little water, unlike cotton, which takes a long time to grow. Hemp also requires no pesticides and is an easy crop to grow organically,” explains Auman. “In short, in clothing, hemp is the strongest natural fiber on the planet.”

Wright-Oaks Farms, a family hemp farm in the San Luis Valley, was selected to grow the hemp and oversee the project. Photo: Denver WestWord

As an early advocate of legal hemp farming, Colorado has an opportunity to attract more business from companies like Patagonia, which are “interested in transitioning to industrial hemp and away from traditional textiles, plastics and other materials,” Polis said. , who visited Wright-Oaks Farms earlier this year to see hemp for himself.

“Colorado is a very connected place globally. We have big global companies, like Patagonia, that are testing projects here. This is yet another opportunity to work with an international market and an international product chain. We are located in the center of the country, so we have easy access,” explained Polis.

Decortication: a complex transformation process 

Although Colorado was one of America's largest hemp producers during the early stages of legalizing the plant, the state still lacks extensive processing capabilities to turn hemp into the material for many products. Although hemp is relatively easy to grow, with low maintenance during the growing phase, turning it into fiber is a new and complicated process for American manufacturers. The separation of hemp fibers from the core of the plant requires a mechanized process, called decortication, and must be done in a specific way to meet Patagonian clothing standards.

There are specific machines for the hemp decortication process, a somewhat complex process that separates the fibers

The company's Chinese supplier was prepared to send consultants to the Colorado project, but the COVID-19 pandemic has hit China and America, forcing consultations to go virtual. Despite the obstacles, the Wright-Oaks farm planted seeds in the spring, says Auman, and then harvested a 500-acre plot (about 200 hectares) in September.

The San Luis Valley project is the only one of its kind in Patagonia and Auman hopes to see Colorado become a major supplier of hemp fabrics for the company. Polis management would like to see Patagonia's Colorado hemp footprint expand to 800 hectares next year and intends to create three more similar partnerships between the state's hemp industry and other national brands.

“The state is really looking forward to the economic development that hemp can bring,” concluded Polis.

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