It is necessary to “work” so that hemp fashion becomes widespread and accessible. Retting is a fundamental step

The development of fibres depends on the drying and maceration processes in the field, which poses new challenges for a sector that wants to assert itself in a competitive and demanding market. However, drying in the field directly affects the characteristics of hemp fibres. This is an essential barrier to the growth of the industry and the mass production of hemp products. In France, work is already underway on solutions. We learned more about them in one of today’s panels at the World Hemp Forum, which has been taking place since yesterday in Troyes.

Hemp fibre is perhaps one of the uses from which the Portuguese benefited most in the past, during the Discoveries, through its use in sails, ropes, clothing and other equipment for ships and caravels. Today, the appreciation of textile fibres recognises and identifies new and different barriers, which still pose some difficulties for hemp to become a textile fibre widely used by the general public and to stop being a niche product.

The fibre valorisation roundtable, moderated by Marie-Emmanuelle Belzung, Director of the European Flax and Hemp Alliance, brought together Laurie Blanchecotte, Commercial and Marketing Manager at La Chanvrière, Arnaud Day, Scientific Director at FRD-CODEM, Tom Gong from the raw materials department at Hemp Fortex and HempAge Director Robert Hertel. The discussion focused particularly on the process of rescuing and in the variability of the fibers depending on this drying that generally occurs in the field.

For the past 10 years, La Chanvrière has been developing fibres for the textile industry, with the aim of recapturing this once-strong market and shifting the world towards fashion that comes directly from plants. The panel discussed the current state of hemp fibre processing for the textile industry, which is encountering some difficulties, particularly in obtaining fibres with the desired quality and properties – given that the origin of the fibres often defines the mechanical properties they present.

Arnaud Day, Scientific Director of FRD-CODEM, specified that hemp has its specificities and that “it has qualities, but these have to be accepted by everyone”. For the director of the research institute, “agriculture plays an important role in morphology, composition, surface properties, mechanical properties, specificities”. Day also recalled that rescuing is a fundamental step and “when done in the field it has variable quality”. This is why the FRD is developing the project Rightlab with the aim of creating a decision support tool, based on reliable and relevant indicators of the level of maceration of hemp straw and fibers.

Robert Hertel from HempAge closed the discussion by answering a question about the possibility of developing affordable hemp fashion for the general public. The German admits that this has been the idea from the beginning and that the plans show that it is possible. However, he says that it is necessary to look for innovative solutions, such as the mixed use of fiber and seed. Hertel also said that we need to “work towards it” and not in the opposite direction to what should be done.

What is rescuing?

O rescuing (or retting) is an essential step in the processing of hemp and other plant fibers, such as flax, to separate the fibers from the husk or stem. This process involves the controlled decomposition of plant materials, facilitating the release of the fibers without damaging them.

The main objective is to degrade pectin, a substance that binds the fibers to the woody parts of the stem.

The importance of rescuing in hemp
O rescuing Properly performed is essential to produce long, high-quality fibres for textiles, as well as facilitating subsequent mechanical processing (decortication and spinning). This technique also prevents excessive degradation of the fibres, which could compromise their strength. This process, although an initial step, has a direct impact on the final quality of the derived products, such as fabrics, ropes, paper and bioplastics.

The different methods of rescuing

1. Correction by water
Hemp stalks are submerged in ponds, lakes or rivers.
Pros:
Fast method (usually 5 to 10 days).
Produces high quality fibers.
Cons:
It can cause environmental pollution if the water is not treated.
Requires large amounts of clean water.

2. Correction in the field (dew retting)
The stems are spread in the field and exposed to the action of humidity and natural microorganisms in the soil.
Pros:
More ecological and economical method.
Does not require large amounts of water.
Cons:
It depends on the weather (rain and humidity are essential).
Slower process (2 to 6 weeks).

3. Correction chemical
Chemicals are used to accelerate the breakdown of pectins.
Pros:
Very fast (a few hours to days).
Cons:
High cost.
Risk of causing damage to the fibers.
Significant environmental impact.

4. Correction enzymatic
It uses specific enzymes to break down pectins.
Pros:
Modern and controlled method.
Better preserves the quality of the fibers.
Cons:
More expensive than traditional methods.

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Antonio João Costa

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I am one of the directors of CannaReporter, which I founded together with Laura Ramos. I am from the unique Island of Madeira, where I currently reside. While I was in Lisbon at FCUL studying Physical Engineering, I became involved in the national hemp and cannabis scene and participated in several associations, some of which I am still a member of. I follow the global industry and especially legislative advances regarding the different uses of cannabis.

I can be contacted by email at joao.costa@cannareporter.eu

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